Fermentation is a fascinating process that is influenced by various factors such as ingredients, temperature, and time. These factors not only affect microbial activity but also play a significant role in determining the flavors of fermented foods. For instance, as kimchi ferments, its flavors gradually transform over time.
I had the opportunity to explore the art of fermentation with Chef Patrice Cunningham at Tastemakers, a shared commercial kitchen in Washington, D.C. Patrice is the owner of Tae-Gu Kimchi, a small business that specializes in crafting and selling deliciously fresh and spicy Korean condiment – kimchi. As I entered the kitchen, Patrice greeted me warmly with a handshake and donning a hairnet, leading me to a steel prep table covered with crates of Napa cabbage.
Patrice and her team expertly chopped the cabbage into bite-sized pieces, embarking on the first step of creating vibrant red and funky kimchi. “I like to think of it as turning cabbage into gold,” Patrice proudly exclaimed. “We work tirelessly every day to provide people with high-quality food.”
Over the course of two days, Patrice guided me through the kimchi-making process, shedding light on the age-old technique of fermentation that creates microbial magic. As she worked, she shared the story of how she found her calling in making kimchi. It all started when she made kimchi with her mother as a child. However, it wasn’t until she lost her job as a chef during the pandemic that she decided to turn her passion into a business.
With her mother’s recipe in hand, Patrice started Tae-Gu Kimchi three years ago. The recipe, typical of the Taegu region in South Korea, features abundant garlic, green onions, and spicy red pepper paste that infuse each bite with bold flavors. Patrice and her team meticulously craft fresh kimchi each week, selling it at local farmer’s markets, with plans to expand into e-commerce and wholesale, and eventually reach a nationwide market.
The process of making kimchi begins with salting the cabbage. Patrice pours a salty brine solution over the chopped cabbage, aiding the natural fermentation process by extracting water from the leaves. As the cabbage sits, the leaves shrink and settle, providing more nutrients for the microbes to thrive.
Cabbage leaves, like other living things, are naturally covered in yeasts and bacteria. Once harvested and chopped, these microbes start fermenting the cabbage. Patrice further enhances this process by immersing the cabbage in a salty brine, following her mother’s recipe meticulously. Her mother, Hong, often visits the kitchen to lend a helping hand and ensure that Patrice stays true to the family’s tradition. With a smile, Patrice acknowledges her mother’s involvement, saying, “It’s almost the same,” emphasizing the bond they share through kimchi-making.
Over time, as the cabbage soaks in the brine, the salt draws out water from the leaves, breaking down cell walls and releasing sugars that become food for the kimchi-making microbes. These microbes possess the extraordinary ability to break down complex sugars and starches into individual sugars, generating energy for their growth. As a result, the cabbage undergoes a wondrous transformation, resulting in a diverse range of flavors that captivate the palate.
The success of fermentation lies in ensuring the right microbes are present at the right time. Salt acts as a crucial tool in this process, favoring the growth of beneficial microbes that contribute to the final product’s flavor. Essentially, the difference between spoiling and fermenting lies in selecting the right microbes that enhance the quality of the end product while inhibiting harmful bacteria that could render the cabbage inedible.
Apart from salt, the right conditions in terms of temperature, oxygen, and competition are essential for a successful fermentation process. As Chef Cunningham ventured into the kitchen the following day to complete the kimchi-making process, she encountered a challenge—the temperature was uncomfortably high, nearing 85 degrees. High temperatures can foster the growth of harmful bacteria, posing a risk to the fermentation process.
In conclusion, the art of fermentation is a remarkable interplay between ingredients, temperature, time, and microbial activity. Through careful manipulation of these factors, individuals like Patrice Cunningham can harness the power of fermentation to create delightful fermented foods like kimchi. As the flavors of kimchi evolve over time, one can truly appreciate the wonders of this traditional food processing technique.
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Rohit Malhotra is a medical expert and health journalist who offers evidence-based advice on fitness, nutrition, and mental well-being. His articles aim to help readers lead healthier lives.
